Highlights
- Three curated sessions: Nostalgia, Nouveau and Timeless
- Estimates from R4 000 to R350 000
- Strong focus on handcrafted, hallmarked and historically traceable pieces
- Viewing by appointment in Cape Town and Johannesburg
- Timed online auction, 6-26 March 2026
Strauss & Co presents a jewellery sale that shifts the conversation from “vintage” to archive, artistry and the wearing of stories. The timed online auction from 6-26 March 2026 brings together pieces that span eras without feeling fixed in any one of them. Explore the Uncovered Classics: Strauss & Co Explores The Wearing Of Stories
The sale is divided into three stylistic sessions: Nostalgia, Nouveau and Timeless. The latter includes enduring forms such as eternity bands, classic diamond rings, and gold chains. Nouveau explores asymmetry, enamel, organic forms and playful motifs, including insects and sculptural gemstone work. Nostalgia gathers pieces that carry a sense of inheritance and personal memory, from Victorian necklaces to revival jewels inspired by antiquity.
“Archive is a word that resonates today,” says Kim Goeller, Jewellery Specialist at Strauss & Co. “It suggests something with provenance and character, but also something relevant now. Many of these pieces were made at a bench by hand. You can see the maker’s decisions in the metal.”
Among the top lots is an Art Deco double clip diamond brooch (estimate R80 000-100 000), set with 126 old European-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 12.00 carats. Crafted in 16k white gold and platinum, the brooch separates into two individual clips – a hallmark of Art Deco versatility.
A diamond bow brooch (estimate R40 000-60 000) is pavé-set with 429 rose-cut diamonds totalling approximately 2.15 carats. Delicate milgrain edging and articulated tassels demonstrate meticulous hand-finishing.
“You simply don’t see that level of detailed, handmade articulation in contemporary mass production,” says Goeller.
Pearls feature prominently. The design of a diamond and pearl necklace (estimate R50 000-70 000) centres on a paisley motif pendant with 76 round brilliant-cut diamonds (approximately 1.73 carats), suspended from a chain of interlinking pearls measuring 6–6.5mm. The piece balances formal structure with softness.
Gold, driven by current bullion prices, plays a substantial role in statement pieces. Two imperial gold chains in 18k yellow gold (estimate R210 000-230 000) weigh a combined 103.10 grams, while an Italian choker necklace and bracelet suite of honeycomb links (estimate R360 000-400 000) weighs 171.7 grams combined.
Revivalist and symbolic jewels add narrative depth. A spider jadeite pendant (estimate R15 000-30 000), featuring a carved jadeite ring and an oval cabochon opal at the spider’s abdomen, doubles its attraction with craftsmanship and the resurgence of insect motifs. Egyptian revival jewellery, including scarabs and bee motifs linked to ancient iconography, emphasises the sale’s engagement with antiquity.
Many pieces bear hallmarks, which facilitate accurate dating and geographic attribution. “Knowing where and when a piece was made gives it context,” Goeller notes. “It’s part of its identity.”
Importantly, most of the sale comprises jewels that are too intricate, too artistic, or too historically resonant to be reduced to melt value. In a secondary market often driven by gold refining, this sale stands apart.
“A lot of heavy gold pieces at auction are purchased by dealers to refine,” Goeller explains. “In this case, I can’t imagine someone melting an Egyptian scarab or a handmade articulated brooch. These are pieces to wear – and to continue their stories.”
The sale also responds to a generational shift. Younger collectors are increasingly sustainability-conscious and favour uniqueness over commercial ubiquity. Entry-level estimates begin at R4 000, offering access to real gold and gemstone jewellery without the premium of contemporary retail mark-ups.
Layering and personalisation underpin the sale’s visual direction. Solid gold chains stacked with pendants, ranging from lockets and charms to rose-cut diamonds in tube settings, reflect a broader movement toward jewellery as biography.
“It might be a locket from your grandmother, a pendant bought on your travels, a charm that marks a moment,” says Goeller. “Jewellery becomes autobiographical.”
The sale takes place as brooches, insects, pearls and sculptural gold continue to dominate red carpets and international awards ceremonies. Rather than chasing trends, Uncovered Classics reveals the historical continuity of the jewellery.
Top Lots
Lot 1: Diamond bow brooch. Pavé-set in a delicate bow motif with 429 rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 2.15 carats, with milgrain edging and hinged mechanisms in the end ribbons with tube-set rose-cut diamond tassels, brooch pin and safety latch, platinum, length approximately 6cm, total weight 26.20 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R40 000-60 000
Lot 49: Art Deco diamond ring. In a geometric navette-shaped design, featuring 15 pavé-set round brilliant-cut and old mine-cut diamonds weighing approximately 0.55 carats, with milgrain detailing, mounted in 18k two-toned gold, size M, total weight 6.60 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R12 000-18 000
Lot 71: Diamond and pearl necklace. Designed with a paisley motif pendant and teardrop tassels, with 76 pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 1.73 carats, suspended from a chain of interlinking round pearls measuring approximately 6–6.5mm in diameter, with a pill-shaped box clasp, mounted in 18k yellow gold, length approximately 42cm, total weight 40.50 grams. Like new. Estimate: R50 000-70 000
Lot 44: Art Deco double clip diamond brooch. Featuring 126 claw- and pavé-set old European-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds weighing approximately 12.00 carats, designed as two detachable clips that can be worn individually, joined by a removable pin fitting, mounted in 16k white gold and platinum, length approximately 5cm, total weight 29.00 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R80 000-100 000
Lot 27: Spider jadeite pendant. A claw-set oval cabochon-cut opal weighing approximately 0.50 carats, forming the spider’s abdomen, is a focus point on a granulated web, within a carved jadeite surround, suspended from a simple bail, mounted in 18k yellow gold, length approximately 4cm, total weight 11.20 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R15 000-30 000
Lot 24: Two imperial gold chains. Comprising two rolo-link chains with granulation detailing, one with a hook clasp and one with a lobster clasp, mounted in 18k yellow gold, each approximately 81cm in length, total combined weight 103.10 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R210 000-230 000
Lot 26: Italian choker necklace and bracelet. Choker necklace and matching bracelet, each formed of flat honeycomb-shaped links connected by ribbed rings, with box clasp and safety latch, mounted in 18k yellow gold, necklace length approximately 13cm, bracelet length approximately 20cm, total combined weight 171.70 grams. Very good condition. Estimate: R360 000-400 000
Timed online auction
6-26 March 2026
Auction viewing: By appointment only in Johannesburg until March 15, 2026; thereafter in Cape Town.
Location: Strauss & Co, Cape Town
To browse, register and bid, visit www.straussart.co.za
